Back at the Louvre
As I mentioned in Friday’s
post, after touring many of the great art collections of Europe, I have to give
the Louvre the nod as the largest and overall most impressive collection I’ve
seen. Others sometimes speak more to my
heart, but the Louvre is simply overwhelming.
On the walk to it, I took a
different path than usual and strolled by this lovely church, whose name I
never caught.
Click on any image to see a larger
version.
On the lawn across the
street from the pyramid, people enjoyed the day that was, despite being
completely overcast, balmy and lovely.
The first sight of Winged Victory of Samothrace always
touches me.
Up close, despite the missing bits and the restoration, she is truly magnificent, lovely from every angle and, for me, more moving than most sculpture.
What remains of her right
hand sits in a nearby case, an oddly touching fragment reaching forever for
nothing.
If you’ve read my Florence entries, you know how much I love certain Italian painters. One of my favorites is Botticelli. I don’t recall seeing frescoes from him, but I in the Louvre I was lucky enough to get to study two of them. Both are clearly incompletely but nonetheless beautiful.
The Louvre will take on
anyone in any area. You want a ceiling
fight? The Louvre is ready.
Want some more
Botticelli? Take three.
One side of one floor of one
of the four major wings is the Grand Gallery.
I took this shot from one end to give you a sense of the scale of just
this one gallery.
How Bartolomeo got away with
painting this odd tableau I do not know, but I very much liked it.
Veronese was definitely in
the house!
If I hadn’t seen his largest
painting—and the world’s largest oil painting—in Venice, this would have been
the biggest Veronese work I’d ever seen.
I know next to nothing about Paris Bordone, but after seeing this beautiful portrait, I want to see more of his work.
Titian had a presence.
Andrea di Bartolo filled a
few walls. I quite liked this one.
And then there were the Da
Vinci paintings. Yes, I again saw the
Mona Lisa, though only through a giant scrum of people kept at bay by a wood
partition, four guards, and two layers of glass. Yes, the Mona
Lisa is all you’ve heard and more.
So, though, are the other works of his on display.
Any time you start to think you’re smart and feel like you might be getting too big for your britches, no matter you are, think about Da Vinci, and get humble. I sure do.
My new buddy, Arcimboldo (go
back to the Vienna entries to see more of his work), had two pieces here,
including this entry in his Seasons series, Autumn.
As big as many of the
paintings in the Grand Gallery were, the Louvre has a whole section of a wing
dedicated to “large-format” paintings.
Among them was this wonderful Delacroix.
I like David’s work, but a
lot of it feels static and posed. For no
good reason, this one did not strike me that way, and I very much liked
it.
Hours after entering it, I
left the Louvre, my brain and heart full from so much great art. After two long visits to it, I hadn’t seen
even a quarter of it. Another reason to
go back to Paris!
I wish I were wealthy enough
to be able to take all my friends to the Louvre and these other great
galleries. Seeing the art in person is a
completely different experience from studying it in a book.
Outside, a gorgeous spring
garden provided a great way for me to re-enter the world.
The day ending, on the bridge to Notre Dame from Ile Saint-Louis, a strange man chanted and invoked odd magicks in the service of odd art from recycled materials—and in the hopes of gathering a few coins from passersby.
Ah, Paris, I will miss you!
Now, I’m in Miami
International Airport waiting for the flight to RDU. It’s also good to be back in the U.S.
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