Saint Jacques does it again

I've sung the praises of Saint Jacques, a Raleigh French restaurant, here before. After dinner there last night, I must once again declare this fine place one of the very best in the Triangle area.

Because our group had sampled almost everything on the standard menu, I asked if the chef would be willing to come up with a few new things for us. He was, and every single one we tried was excellent. Many took advantage of some summer truffles that they had just received. I ordered three of the specials, none of which were on the menu--and all of which should be.

My first course was steak tartare, which came with some delicate toasted baguette slices and a small side salad. It was rich and flavorful and generally a fine implementation of the dish.

My second was stronger: a house-made pasta with a sauce of mushrooms, peas, and bacon. Wow, was it great! These folks excel at sauces, as any great French place should.

My main course was every bit as strong: four perfectly cooked scallops, each capped with a truffle slice, that surrounded a Parmesan and asparagus risotto. As good as the scallops were, the risotto was better; it was as perfectly prepared and delicious as any I've ever tasted.

Several of us went for the same dessert, the night's feature: profiteroles stuffed with dark chocolate truffled ice cream. Mixing truffles with ice cream sounded like a risky move, but it was also too interesting a dish to resist. I am so glad I ordered it. The chocolate and the truffle went together perfectly, with neither overwhelming the other. Wow.

If you live anywhere near Raleigh, rush to Saint Jacques while the summer truffles are still available. You'll be very happy you did.